Outside our house at The Beach That Never Has Waves, the swell is filling in fast. The tide is already too high on the bank and the whole thing has become a lurching trampoline of a shore break. Ducking and diving under mutant waves, four or five waveriders are trying … Read the rest >>>
It is Sunday.
The world and its granny out and about. Church bells clanging. Believers streaming out into the light eager to return to their vices. Adults and children with white sticks in mouths – lighting ciggies and sucking lollies. Everyone squinting as the sun burns away at the haze. … Read the rest >>>
There’s this thing that me and my friends do after surfing together and I bet that, whether you surf or not, you and your friends do a similar thing too. I’m referring to the age old art of giving a compliment to get a compliment, and for our group of … Read the rest >>>
Dreams can come trueGabrielle, summer of 1993
This week both boys have been ill. Which is a new thing for us. One yes, two never. Never again hopefully.
The baby, M, has got a cough and a bit of a cold and TBH is bossing his way through it. … Read the rest >>>
As I may have previously mentioned, we’ve got a proper grown up car now.
Before I begin and just to clarify, I’ve been a grown up for quite a long time; age wise I mean. I’ve been to a university of sorts and got a degree, also of sorts. And … Read the rest >>>
I’ve become a bit addicted recently to a free game on my iPhone called True Surf. Terrible name. Pretty good game. Actually a bit addicted is an understatement. I was so completely addicted that I deleted the app (because my wife told me she never would have married me if … Read the rest >>>